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Construction of a Lace Front Wig

Lace front wigs are very popular for stage, TV and film. The front edge of the wig is made from very fine lace that is almost invisible. The construction of a wig allows the wig maker to create a wig that fits the artist’s exact hairline, whilst giving the illusion that real hair is sprouting from the scalp. There is excess lace left around the wig in front of the artists hairline (5mm T.V./2cms Stage), this is to enable the wig maker to adhere the lace to the skin.

 

Advantages to the use of lace wigs:

  • Continuity-the wig will look the same every time on show

  • The microphone can be hidden inside the wig (example-Lee Mead in Close Every Door.

  • It is quick and efficient for the makeup/wig artists

  • The actor/actress can still change their hair without breeching their contracts

 

Disadvantages to the use of lace wigs:

  • The wig could fall off during performance

  • The wig becomes hot for the Actor/Actress

  • The wig can become damaged without correct procedure, it can be expensive to replace, and take a long time to remake

 

The fitting:

The first fitting will most likely b the first meeting with the actor. The purpose of this meeting is to discuss the design and the physical appearance of the character, and develop further ideas for the transformation requirement. A reference photo will need to be taken as well as all of their measurements. Additionally, a sample will need to be taken if a colour match is required. A razor is used to take a sample, as scissors would leave an obvious straight cut. The razor should be used from the root to the tip as the colour of hair varies throughout the length. The samples need to be labeled from which part of the head they have been taken from. When fitting three people are needed, one to do the practical, one to write everything down, and one is in charge. 

Making the wig template: what you will need:

Tape measure

Notebook

Hair dressing scissors

Cling film

Cello tape

Sharpee pen

 Camera

Grips, pins, wig nets

Step 1: assess the hair. You need to be aware of the shape of the head. Wrap the hair dry (wetting the hair will be uncomfortable for the actor or cause them illness). Prep the hair ready for the wig, it needs to be wrapped tight to the head. It is best to wrap in one go, however, if your model has thick hair you may need to split it into two sections to wrap. You need to consider where the wig is going to go, and if the wig has a parting, usually all of the hair is wrapped up onto the crown of the head. The style of the wig will determine how you wrap the hair. You also need to consider the anchor points around the temple and corner of the nape. The pin curls (anchor points) need to be made to the same length as the grips (see in image above the grips are slightly too long for the pin curl). Once the hair has been wrapped, you need to make a note and take reference images so that it can be reapted in the same way for the next fitting. 

The difference between caul net and foundation net

Step 2: Next you need some cling film to wrap around the head and cello tape. Once this has been tightly wrapped (but loose enough to remove easily), you need to measure the head; the measurements are used to double check the fitting, and need to be noted down. You need to ensure you write what measurement you use, as when working abroad other countries may use different measurements. Measure the nape (go by the crease in the neck), ear to nape, ear-to-ear and temple-to-temple across the face. 

Step 3: The next step is to cut around the ears, make sure all the hairs are tucked up with a tail comb. The template is drawn on following the hairline, and a mark is made where the parting is. You need to make a note here of the circumference. Then, cello tape the marker pen. 

Step 4: The template is placed onto a wooden block (wooden blocks are used because they do not move). It is important at this step to place your template whilst visualising where the wig will be.  If padding is needed at this stage, you have the wrong sized block and need to use a larger one. Next, powder the inside of the template, you can use cellotape on the block so that you can use marker pen to draw onto it. 

All images above: Taylor, S. (2015) ‘Makeup for Media and Performance’.

Three part lace front foundation

  • The pattern for a three-part lace front consists of one part lace, one part foundation net and one part caul net

  • The pieces are cut and pinned, allowing a 1 ½ - 2cms for overlapping

  • The outer edge is turned under as a hem, and whipped

  • These are whipped together with nylon thread, some darts may form in certain places

  • The lace front has a “free edge” without a seam

  • Once all parts have been whipped, the front lace is whipped to attach the front lace to the surrounding nets.

  • It is important the lace sits flat, and in front of the hairline (2cms) as this will be the visible area that is adhered to the artist’s forehead during application.

  • Darts will be best behind the hairline

  • The darts should be pinned, in the direction, which the wig will often be combed.

  • Once the foundation has been has been constructed it is ready for knotting

  • Review the fit by placing onto your model and re tracing in with a kohl pencil

  • A hand knotted wig should consist of a third of the amount of hair found on an average size head.

  • All postiche should simulate the natural growth direction of the hair

 

Useful terms:

 

Handmade wig: The wig foundation is constructed by hand through sewing or whipping foundation and lace together. Hair is usually knotted by hand

Lace Front Wig: The a bespoke wig that is knotted according to a design, thinned at the front edge to replicate the actors hairline

Hard front wig: A wig that has no lace front. A sewn seam replaces the lace creating a hard front. This is limiting for the hairstyles. It usually has a fringe to hide the hard front

Machine made wigs (weft wigs): the wig foundation is made from stretchy net, which will fit many head sizes. Wefts of hair are sewn to the base in various patterns to produce a non-flexible pattern

Weft: A length if weaving.

Ventilating: American term for knotting

Cap: an area of wig that has been knotted. They are used to recreate fringes; bangs, partings and crowns can be inserted into a weft wig to give a more realistic finish to the styled wig

Why is a wig useful for Lee in this performance?

  • he is able to hide his microphone in the wig, he wears two microphones incase one fails

  • he is the lead so it is very important he does not lose his microphone, this is why he wears two, the wig helps to keep the microphones secure

  • although the wig is very similar to his own hair, the wig is useful as it looks the same everytime for show, it is easier and faster for application, and there is no risk of him drastically changing his hair during show time

Lee Mead in 'close every door to me' 

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