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IMAGINING THE DEMONIC
HAIR FRAMES/AVANT GARDE

 

 

  • You can make the hair structure from wires and use a soldering tool to attach the structure. Rounded shapes are always easier.

  • You always have to pad the hair structure so that it is comfortable for your model

  • You can use their own hair as a cushion

  • You have to consider how you are going to attach the hair to the frame

  • Cover with caul net to help the foundatiomn of the hair so the hair doesn’t collapse

  • You can always knot into the caul net

  • It is really important that the wire frame is symmetrical and a stable structure as it can ruin the final look

  • You can cornrow the hair so that the frame can be sewn in

  • Or you can pin curl the hair and attach tabs to the hair strcture

  • You need to thnk about physis and gravity, where is it going to go? And wil the weight weigh the head down

  • You have to measure your models head to make sure it fits your model well

  • When does the hair sculpture become a hat? It needs to integrate with their own hair so that it is a hair piece

  • You can use chicken wire, polystyrene

  • The thicker you go, with heavier its going to be for someone to wear

  • Example-ribbon has been wrapped around the wire so that it is easier to attach hair onto

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

CLASS DEMONSTRATIONS

Imagining the demonic

 

Example of a research programme.

What informs the notion of demons?

How do we apply this ideology in design and makeup transformation?

Characterisation, stereotypes etc.

 

What are the theoretical issues for research?

  • History, paintings sculptures

  • Religion (heaven hell) lots of descriptions

  • Ethnology-the study of race and cultural beliefs

  • Mythology- gods

  • Psychology-the study of the human mind, behaviour

  • Anthropological

  • Physiognomy- reading faces. The history of physiognomy (judging faces)

Images of satan

Early vanity and divine salvations by Hans Memling c 1485

Colour plate portrait

Colour print illustrator Arthur rackham (1915)

Mosters and the grotesques

Funeral papyrus (c 950 BC) Thebes. Egypt

Creatures of fantasy

Maurice garcon (c1560) La Vie execrable de guillemette

Gargouls- have a lot of character they re more exciting to look at.

Visions of hell

Nicholas le rouge (1523) Le Grant Kalendrier et compost des bergiers

John martin (1841) fallen angels entering pandemon

The demonic in live performance

How have they been represented in television?

Buffy the vampire

The angels take manhattan Dr Who 2012

Demonic makeup transformation in film

-frankenstein,

-phantom of the

-fright night

-twilight

-angel heart

-the devil within, prosthetic nose gives him strength

-the devils double

something to think about: quotes

DEVOLOPING A FASHION BASED PORTFOLIO

 

Commercial VS editorial

  • - selling a product a brand, simple layout, styling and makeup product placement

 

  • -Magazine, spreads, runway, avant garde, tailored to brand a design work

 

Advertising- important to know your brand.

-product placement

-clean and beautiful makeup

-focus feature to suit promotion

-enhance natural features

-consumers can relate to the image

-natural lighting and setting

Commercial or beauty context

-consumer friendly

-application techniques are bolder

-flawless and polished

-naturally defined features

-consumer friendly

-focus feature enhancing models face

  •  

-grand overall presentation

-luxury brands need luxury representation

-sexy and edgy

-celebrity endorsed

-high fashion makeup

-image is the focus feature

-creative

-advanced skills

-aesthetically pleasing

-portfolio appropriate

loreal ad vs craig mcdean/Swarovski

-the lighting is natural and looks real

-the lighting in the Swarovski shows shadows and different lighting

j crew vs prada ad

-light is bright in j crew, the image is simple and still flawless

donna karan ad vs meisel for vogue

context: audience appropriate

-gender

-age group

-market uk or international

-photogrpaher, styles and photographer influences

-brand market research and brand history

Mario testino:

Intimate portraits wit celebrities

-consider what the phoogrpaher style is, black and white?

-enhancing natural features

-its all about the subject

tim walker-

-set style, costume staging lighting

-more room for creativity

-apporach different photographer with different styles

justify why you have chosen your photgrpaher

being in current in makeup pratices

-help uyou to regonise trends and patterns in makeuo and apply to portfolio

-why is this important

-how will you approach researching trend

-what impact will this have on your portfolio

the four trends to watch are:

-beautiful and damned (being creative with koal smudges, polished bright skin) solid lines

-strength of beauty (fresh skin, subtle natural bronzed, rosey cheeks, natural brow) toffee nude tones, brow gels

-love worn (charcoal smokey eye, diffused, lip balm, natural glosses)

-red 70s (red lips brick tones) eyes rust colours, sharp lines very placed, skin is very important

results-

fashion portfolio

-demonstrating understaning of collaboration

-demonstrate skills and capability

2016 prediction- vogue harpers bizzare, pinterest instgram

developing a concept

-youll want to be able to quickly summarize the theme and objective for the portfolio

-this should be consistent and skill base should highlight strengths in makeup

portfolio structure

-select the right images for your audience

-group your images into relevant categories

-treatments-

similar to a call sheet a mini mood board creative direction.

Content-,Client information,Concept cst,Setting,Inspiration,Styling,Locations,Layouts,Call sheet

 

 

AIR BRUSH TECHNIQUES

 

  • Iluustrator paints you can thin them down for application

  • Blue bird is slightly more flexable, the illustrator paints often crack with movement

  • Low odour white spirit to thin down silicone paints

  • Tim ford dvd on airbrushing foam latex

  • Pache talon

  • Take the cap off for fine detail

  • Spray gun good for body paints and spraying moulds

 

Control exercises

  • Curly ques –drawing swoops, to control guideline

  • Keep the air on at all times when airbrushing

  • Draw dots and draw a continuous line to practice your technique

  • Silicone paints will dry very quickly

  • The needle turns the paint intoa cone, so if the needle is bent it will ruin the outcome

  • Use a pattern to redirect for splattering

  • With a stiff brush you can air bursh onto it to create fine lines like hair

  • Soft masking is masking from a distance. The further the distance the softer the line

  • 20-25  psi (pressure) do not air brush near someones eyes

  • whatever you use to clean your airbrush is the same as what you use to thin down the paints.

everything airbrush in wareham

ab series of airbrush, compressor with a 5 litre tank

SCULPTING TECHNIQUES

 

Life cast

  • Colour- do it white or grey. Some people paint them the same colour as the clay, so that you can see it as one cohesive design.

  • The bottom is flat so that it can sit neatly on a worktop. Also for health and safety reasons so that you do not cut yourself on the fibreglass

  • The quality of the piece needs to be priority

  • Everything needs to be right to be able to start your sculpt

  • There are no sharp edges which would interfere with the moulding

  • The undercuts have been filled in

  • Keep a landmark of the ears so you know where they are

  • If it’s a younger face keep the cast very smooth

  • Use the head to try and design, you can use water clay to design

  • Designing is best to be designed on a anatomical structure so you can see how it would look

 

 

  • Tools-carving knife, cake making silicone spatula,  giant rakes. Wire raked loops available at industrial plasters. They are good for getting shpaes and for creating the texture

  • Metal kidneys, the range. Teranties on warren street.

  • Sculpting in wed clay water based clay

  • You need to think about the actors face and wrinkles, your makeup needs to match your actors natural features, this is so your actor can move

  • You can use cling film for a template to make eyebags

  • Look at the forms from the front and the back

  • Put more on than you need and subtract

  • Pans labyrinth –to watch

  • The back of the neck balances out the head and front of the face

  • Anatomical considerations

  • Kitanimboyon youtube anamatomic show reels

  • You need to have an awareness of the anatomy

  • Rake toolhelps to define form

  • Gustav hogen animatronics

 

Secondary form:

  • Thinking about anatomy-using a normal lool

     

     

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APPROACHING CREATURE DESIGN

  • Why do we design creatures?

  • Film

  • Tv

  • Gaming industry

  • Roll playing games

  • Collectables

  • They are cool!

 

Artists:

On my aub.

Look at how they design, and how they approach design

Websites-on my aub.

 

It’s not what you look at its what you see

Cheetah-super powers.

Andral-colour. Nature has the ability o put conflicting colours together

Star nosed mole- helps to design unusual designs

Camouflage

Howler monkey

Night vision-tarsier

-photography unusual

igor siwanowich photography

theres nothing wrong with being inspired by what is on your doorstep

 

Approaching creature design

  • What purpose will it serve?

  • What environment will it live in?

  • What does it eat?

  • What culture is it from?

  • What age is it?

  • Anatomy

  • Areas of calm

  • Pose

  • Believable elements

  • (jordu schell avator) you can see their culture and their culture

 

what’s good and what’s bad?

 

The hobit-

Polymer clay- for designing (super sculpy) polymer clay pit online

SCULPTING TUTORIAL WITH WAYNE

  • Hand is made from herculite (very strong and light)

  • Fine casting herculite can be mixed to make a strong cast. This is strong and can still be casted down

  • Great for the hand as the fingers are not going to break off

  • Slightly longer drying time than normal plaster

  • For hand sculpting the hands is usually in a neutral position

  • Sprays with water as the plaster soaks moisture, this is so that the plaster does not suck all the water from the clay. The clay will stick better this way

  • Make sure it is not too thick so that it is easy to put on and off

  • Using wed clay

  • Even when creating a troll it is important to stick to anatomy

  • Make sure you take into account the movement of the hand

  • Keep wetting down the clay

  • Use silicone oil to punch hairs more easily. Use every 5-6 hairs

  • As you are going keep a record of the knuckles

  • Use acrylic or pt flex for the nails

  • Silicone sculpt med cil 32 (medical grade silicone)- it has 18hours working time but will give no blend able edge

  • Hobby craft tool-colour shaper

  • Kidney latex or metal

  • Doesn’t matter if you put the creases in really heavy, you need to understand the point of movement

  • Build up more than you need so that you can chip away

  • Need to add some reinforcing netting for strength, seeing parts of the plaster come through is a good indication its not too thin

  • Dave molonoski hair punching

  • South western wire wrap loop tools

  • Internal workshop- thinking about how you will mould it

  • Industrial plaster (to buy wed clay)

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SEMIOTICS

Underpins everything we do as make-up artists, semiotics is the study of signs; it is what signs and symbols mean- what they convey to the audience. What your reading is a visual text, a drawing, painting or photograph. Carefully considered construction: Firstly describe what it is you are looking at, what is the model wearing, ore of white light coming from behind her. What is being signified here? Gestures in the pose? Decedent, luxurious, lustrous, powerful, essentially wearing the perfume- shape of costume, human nature and desire- does this come across in the photograph? VOGUE 2011- tom ford beauty three page spread: Male and female model, female is young blonde and beautiful, sex and health are used to sell and promote products. The male model looks masculine with stubble against the females soft skin, at a glance the male looks more dominant but you see very little of him in the photo. The female commands most of the shot, your eyes are drawn to her, her lips in particular are full, red and glossy are the focal point. It could signify dominance, passion, jealousy, she has control.

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